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Polishing and Cleaning removes the marks and scratches a jewellery piece got from the previous processes, hence giving the jewellery piece a uniform surface and preparing it for the buffing process.

It is done with relatively hard-faced polishing wheels mounted on polishing motors. Polishing follows grinding and buffing. Buffing is always followed by polishing.

IValuable metals are lovely all alone, from the rich shine of yellow gold to the thick white of platinum—and everything in the middle. Accept that as a beginning stage and include the sort of designing and textural components that accompany applying a completing treatment, and that magnificence goes to an entire another level. Regardless of whether it's the apparent matte of a satin finish or the eye-getting shades of a patina, appropriately completed metals take on a layer of genuine character.

We offer the following types of finishes:


A satin finish is a finely finished, non-intelligent completion that doesn't have clear scratch lines. As a rule, it is made by scratch brushing. On silver and gold combinations, a metal brush with foamy water from a cleanser or hand cleanser functions admirably. It is basic to utilize foamy water; in any case, the brush can move metal to your metal's surface.

The lines you make in the metal can be roundabout, straight, or in whatever design you pick. On a satin finish, the lines are so little and inconspicuous, they're truly not prominent in that capacity.

Similarly, as with any procedure, solicit a number from gem specialists and you'll find various solutions. For a genuine satin finish nothing used to beat a Scotch stone with the completion applied in a little round movement.

The Scotch stone is a normally rough stone commonly utilized for honing blades. It arrived in a structure generally the state of a pencil, then again it was square and the end could be molded with sandpaper, empowering it to get into the littlest spots. I like the completion left by the Scotch stone as a foundation surface, It's not incredible on a forward surface as the completion isn't profound, and a territory finished by Scotch stone should be ensured or on a piece that won't get a lot of wear-related harm.

Discovering Scotch stones hard to source nowadays, The upside of Supertones is that they come in eight cornmeal (from180 to 1200), and they are accessible in a few sizes, from1 mm square to a lot bigger. Furthermore, similar to Scotch stones, they can be formed to venture into the most secure spots.

Notwithstanding the devices you're utilizing to apply a satin finish, it's essential to progress in the direction of equity. It tends to be troublesome. In the case of applying the surface one way or in a roundabout example, work for consistency in the completion. Fortunately, because satin is not a profoundly implanted completion, it's anything but difficult to fix on the off chance that you believe it's turned out badly. The best tip we can give is perseverance. Keep at it until it looks right.

Consistency is likewise a crucial thought. The Accessory Consultant like the satin finish for the manner in which it can improve a piece's ordinary wearability. It's a well-disposed completion, It endures fingerprints and everyday use. It has no specific example. It isn't glossy enough that in the event that you get oil on it, it changes. On the off chance that you scratch it, it just looks like business as usual.

To get the consistency of finish we use water cones. They give us a 3 to 5 micron brushed completion.

Another instrument frequently utilized in making a satin finish is a ScotchBrite cushion. They come in different corn meal. They can be utilized dry or with oil on metal. The strokes can be equal or arbitrarily roundabout. The better the coarseness of the ScotchBrite utilized, the more subtle the imprints. Weight is additionally a factor in what the completion resembles. The lighter the weight you apply, the lighter your completion will be.

In the event that you ever get yourself totally when there's no other option, head for the restroom bureau and break out the toothpaste. Scoured on with a fabric or simply your finger, the fine abrasives in it can help make a satin finish. What's more, don't stress—even this unconventional methodology will make a completion that keeps going as much as some other satin strategy. Any uniform completion will get bigger scratches and marks from the client slamming the jewelry on things. It is only that a satin finish is reliable, and takes more time to outwardly harm than a high clean completion.

Any jewelry finish will be harmed or modified through use and wear. Satin completes and their family will in general seem to last longer than cleaned completes in light of the fact that they are "pre-slammed up"— you're granting a feeling of wear to the piece as it is made.


A brushed completion utilizes a significant number of similar instruments and strategies as the satin finish. The thing that matters is in the level of surface bestowed, and the more clear lines left by the brush. With a wire-brushed completion, the difference between completes is more noteworthy still.

As we get it, the agreement is that in the event that you can observe the individual scratches, at that point it is a brushed completion, The scratches are regularly corresponding to one another, state along the shank of a ring.

SWith a wire-brushed completion, the last surface will likewise rely upon the wire in the brush and the metal you're utilizing it on. A wire-brushed completion on tempered steel appears to be unique than on fine metal. A fine metal gets done with sudsy water can be named a satin finish. A steel wire brush leaves genuine little scores and is unquestionably coarser.

Similarly, as with the satin finish, there are numerous methods and apparatuses helpful in making a brushed look. One basic instrument is a fl ex-shaft set with 3M outspread fiber brushes. The apparatuses arrive in a scope of cornmeal, from forceful to fine. It's generally finished with a turning hand instrument, yet you can likewise set the catches up on a polishing machine in the event that you need a more extensive surface. For instance, to make straight lines on a plain wedding ring, you can set the brushes on your cushion, put the ring on a mandrel, and afterward turn the mandrel gradually to make a directional look.

The Accessory Consultant likes to utilize sandpaper or steel or metal brushes to make our form. The thing that matters is essentially the coarseness, Where satin is an exceptionally fine coarseness, brushed is more coarse. The Accessory Consultant suggests attempting a pen style brush in either steel or metal. These brushes are frequently used to set up a surface for plating yet will function admirably to surface milder metals. Likewise, the solidness of the fibers on these pens can be changed in accordance with the shift the surface made.

Notwithstanding the devices you're utilizing to apply a satin finish, it's essential to progress in the direction of equity. It tends to be troublesome. In the case of applying the surface one way or in a roundabout example, work for consistency in the completion. Fortunately, because satin is not a profoundly implanted completion, it's anything but difficult to fix on the off chance that you believe it's turned out badly. The best tip we can give is perseverance. Keep at it until it looks right.

One could utilize sandpaper of a coarseness sufficiently enormous to leave marks, or glue of coarser particles and water or oil scoured on with the fingers, noticing that a couple of latex gloves is a smart thought for that last proposal. Sand, silicon carbide, or different abrasives are alternatives. The coarser the molecule, the more clear the imprint.

Changing from the fiber brush to a wire brush is the last distinction in these completions. Like the fiber brushes, wire brushes are ordinarily utilized related to a cleaning engine or flex-shaft, and can be utilized with or without oil. Utilizing an oil will make a smoother, less coarse completion. On the off chance that the brush is brass or nickel silver (called a nickel brush), it needs an oil, Otherwise it leaves metal or nickel silver on your jewelry. Treated steel is just a single you can decide to grease up or not. The brushes fluctuate in coarseness for contrasting degrees of the surface. Uncertain what direction to go with the brushed looks? The Accessory Consultant recommends breaking out a bit of test metal and attempting every one. To discover what the look will be on, state, a white gold ring, do each and see what you think.


"Sandblasted" is something of an antiquated term for this siege style completing method. As a result of the danger of silicosis from genuine sand, an assortment of media has been created to supplant it, from silicon carbide and aluminum oxide to small glass dots. The work is done in a chamber intended to contain the grating vehicle for administrator security and maintaining a strategic distance from the inward breath of airborne particulates.

With sandblasting, you can utilize levels of forcefulness, You can go from truly hard silica carbide corn meal up to glass beading, which is one of the best. They're actually that: completely circular, minuscule, small glass globules. At the point when they hit the outside of the metal, they hammer it—however, the spots are so little, it gives a sort of delicate, delicate yet-glossy surface. It's a high clean versus silica carbide, which has coarse edges and surfaces.

The Accessory Consultant additionally prefers to utilize glass beading on pieces with "alcoves and crevices" and itemizing, for example, undermined wires. The glass dabs can get in there and light up the region as opposed to attempting to arrive at it with direct apparatuses toward clean or shine it by hand.

The dots, which go around 70 to 140 work (3to 4 mm) in width, are shot from a pen-formed instrument. It isn't especially exact, so concealing off any zones you don't need to be sandblasted is a smart thought. The Accessory Consultant recommends utilizing tape or nails clean as a veil. Anything you can undoubtedly eliminate later.

In lieu of besieging the metal surface, accomplishing a comparative look utilizing finishing brushes. A sandblasted surface is extremely delicate except if it is secured by dividers or is recessed, Even a fingernail can harm it. The Accessory Consultant very much wants swinging tangling brushes. They resemble a little, lighter form of a paint stripper—the caring you'd use with a force drill.

These apparatuses, which fasten to a revolving handpiece, highlight swinging steel wires that strike the surface. The wires go from coarse to additional fine. They leave a surface fundamentally the same as rough impacting, And, on the grounds that they strike hard, the surface is solidified and hard to harm. The look accomplished is equivalent to customary sandblasting, however the solidifying implies it will rise up to wear better.

These brushes work better on harder compounds, and that when utilizing them you ought not to push hard against the metal. You can obliterate the apparatus. Besides, you have better control of the wrap up by beginning light and modifying pressure, or in any event, bundling the wires together by pushing on their side while turning to change the look. In the event that you are losing the steel wires of the brush, you are pushing excessively hard.

Then again, The Accessory Consultant likes to utilize our attractive pin tumbler to apply the surface. Dissimilar to a swinging tangling brush, the needle-like pure media can go basically wherever on a superficial level, The surface is a ton like glass-globule impacting media and can be.

When working with sandblasting media, start with a fine coarseness, at that point stir your way up to coarser, more forceful corn meal. Along these lines, you can abstain from harming the metal that you'd simply need to fix or eliminate later.

While the appearance of a sandblasted finish might be your ideal outcome, in light of the manner in which the cycle actuates and cleans the outside of a metal, it makes it more open to catching up medicines, for example, oxidizing or metal shading.


While a conventional Hammered finish is made by hitting the metal with the round finish of a ball-peen hammer, there are possibilities for accomplishing this wavy, natural impact also.

This completion typically looks best when applied to a readied, even surface, The Accessory Consultant regularly take a surface to clean preceding peening. However, you can fluctuate the look. Utilizing a cleaned ball peen hammer on a readied, cleaned surface makes an extremely sensational, splendid impact. Taking an unpolished sled to an ill-equipped surface makes a 'harsh cut' kind of look. Utilizing a level sled can make such a 'faceted' look that can likewise be striking, especially on curved surfaces.

For speed, The Accessory Consultant like to supplant the customary sled with a responding head on his fl ex-shaft with a little extra work on the bit. You can sand document, or shape it into a delicate or sharp arch, a bar, whatever design you need to reproduce, again and again, The excellence of utilizing the fl ex-shaft is that it's brisk. You can draw or shape with it, and truly control the surface in light of the fact that any way you finish out the apparatus tip figures out what the look is.

Another apparatus we like to use in our responding hammer handpiece highlights an upset bezel-set jewel. It is joined to a typical fl ex-shaft engine. The tip is in a bad way into the instrument. The precious stone is bezel put topsy turvy in steel. It's a little one-pointer with the culet standing out of the finish of the mallet piece. You utilize the precious stone to hit the metal and make the negative space of the culet. It makes a forceful, textured pounded kind of surface.

While you have that flex-shaft out, mount it with a little round bramble and take a substitute technique for making a pounded finish. A little round bramble can be utilized to make a progression of divots on a surface, which, when cleaned, produces a clone for a pounded surface. This is regularly utilized when cutting waxes within the surface of a ring since it helps the metal while including auxiliary quality.


Patination is the specialty of empowering and quickening a metal's regular inclination to oxidize. Regardless of whether through a substance reagent or simply through warmth, patination can bring out hues running from pure black to red to a conventional blue-green

The sort of metal, the temperature of the metal, just as the temperature of the arrangement that you are utilizing, the time allotment that the arrangement is in contact, and working with the metal, all decide the shading. Normally, the more profound, more extravagant hues include heat somehow or another, either by warming the arrangement or the article being hued. Warmth patinas will in general be more earthy colors and ruddy browns utilizing higher temperatures and afterward either air cooling or extinguishing the hot metal. Lighter, more pastel-like hues will in general show up with lower warmth and extinguishing. The extinguishing will in general settle or prevent the tinge from proceeding to change.

You can get purples, golds, and straw hues with liver sulfur on customary real silver and Argentium.

Patinas are ordinarily for included difference, presenting a more extensive shading range than simply the base metal itself. It can make an all the more outwardly incredible piece.

Patination works best on amalgams with higher copper content, for example, metal, bronze, or authentic silver. The cleaner the metal, particularly in gold, the less you will have the option to really patina it.

Applying a patina to metal is regularly the last treatment made to a piece, and the metal must be exceptionally perfect before beginning. A few people utilize powdered pumice and a toothbrush to clean it, That additionally gives it kind of a 'tooth' for the patina to truly bond onto. For us, it's "a metal brush and a bit of real effort. For metal, you will spend a profession at the sink scouring, however it's fundamental to get each and every piece of oil off the metal. Oil or oil will cause an oppose and the patina won't 'take' in those territories. That can truly destroy your day.

With the metal cleaned, a patinating arrangement can be applied. The piece might be plunged into it, or it tends to be applied all the more sensibly with a paintbrush or even a splash bottle, which we use to make spots and dabs. Everything relies upon the goal and the arrangement utilized. Jax Green gives the great verdigris, while Jax Brown on bronze will make a "lovely rich milk chocolate shading."

Any way you apply it, we suggest taking as much time as necessary with it. Working up the shading gradually before you get to the completion is significant, particularly with a liver of sulfur. Try not to go for dark black in one drop! Rather, plunge and wash, plunge and flush—you'll get a more extravagant dark that way.

For painting an answer onto a piece, we favor Japanese bamboo paintbrushes. The steel ferrule on a conventional paintbrush has the capability of meddling with or fouling the outcomes with some business arrangements. When the piece has been patinated, it should be fixed. Something else, leaving the undermined metal open to the air will permit it to keep on oxidizing. Remember that any patina, either made by synthetic concoctions or from warming, is basically accelerating and upgrading oxidation which will occur normally over some undefined time frame. In the event that the hue isn't fixed, the metal's shading will proceed to oxidize and gradually blur into a more natural finish tone. There are various cycles or items to utilize. One is called Renaissance wax. A few people utilize a splash fixative, shellac, or stain. One of my issues with utilizing splash items is that on the off chance that they ever get worn or scratched, it would seem that scratched plastic.

Our favored arrangement is to apply a glue wax, for example, butcher's wax, to the outside of the piece, rubs it on with hands or material, however not very thick. You would prefer not to adjust the surface you've made. The Accessory Consultant will let that sit for 10 minutes or so to allow the wax to solidify. At that point, we go in with different materials and, practically like waxing your vehicle, buff it gently. It ensures the metal yet in addition gives it a delicate sheen.

Regularly, a fixed surface will keep going as long as it isn't rubbed or worn off with wear. Articles that get less wear, similar to studs and pendants, will in general wear better more. Rings that have been patinated will wear better longer when the tinge is contained inside recessed zones.


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